‘Once spring hits, we take our clothes off’ – musician Yukimi Nagano’s Gothenburg

No place has shaped me as much as Gothenburg. It’s where I was born, where I’ve written all my music and where I formed my band [the Grammy-nominated Little Dragon] with schoolfriends. I moved around a lot as a child, living in Sendai in Japan, then Anaheim Hills in California (my mother is Swedish-American; my father is Japanese). Now I come home from touring and enjoy feeling like I have roots here. There’s a sense of peace in Gothenburg and a closeness to nature. I have a hard time seeing myself living anywhere else.

My thing while growing up was going to record shops to find inspiration. One of my main teenage haunts, Bengans, is still here. It has a big section just for jazz and sometimes it has shows in the cafeteria area. There are so many pop bands from Gothenburg, but also tons of singer-songwriters and a lot of metal bands: acts like The Knife, José González and El Perro del Mar started here. There are lots of opportunities for young people to learn musical instruments and many rehearsal spaces available. That environment is very fruitful. But I also think that, as a teenager, starting a band was the most exciting thing I could do.

Another music staple is Nefertiti, which has a typical jazz-club feel and good music from many different genres – you can catch new sounds you’re curious about, or west African artists. I played some of my first concerts at Nerfertiti when I was about 18, and I recently played For You, my debut solo album, there, which felt like coming full circle. It’s intimate; people are kind of in-your-face because the stage is so low. Swedes might be reserved, to a degree, but when audiences love something they go crazy.

Swedes might be reserved to a degree, but when audiences love something they go crazy

Gothenburg is cosy and easy to walk around. It’s a harbour city with a working-class history – a humble city. The waterfront gives it life and is a beautiful place to watch the sunset. Gothenburg Opera House is an amazing modern building right by the harbour where I’ve seen more dance than music; Little Dragon once collaborated with ballet dancers there. The Opera House has huge glass windows, and you can look over and see a little island called Hisingen, where I lived when I was little; it used to be a shipbuilding district, but it’s been renovated like crazy over the past 20 years.

There are some great up-and-coming fashion designers based in Gothenburg, including Kristine Boström and Sylvi Sundkler. I love dressing up for the stage, but I only buy second-hand or vintage clothes. Myrorna is a second-hand clothing and furniture chain in Järntorget. I once found an Italian leather jacket there. For groceries, I’ll cycle to Fram Ekolivs, a health food cooperative where everything is well-sourced.

The best museums are in the city centre. I really like the Världskulturmuseet (Museum of World Culture); the last show I saw there was about the history of games in different cultures, which was fun. I took my sons there when they were babies – there’s a space that’s perfect for kids to explore. My parents met at Gothenburg City Library, another of my favourite places; I’ll pick out poetry books to feel inspired, and start writing songs.

My studio is right next to the central station; if you listen carefully to some of my songs, you can hear the tram in the recording. I usually take visiting guests for a Swedish meal at Noot nearby – it has really good meatballs with lingonberry sauce and mashed potatoes. Gaffelkonst is another spot close to the studio; it changes its menu weekly and the food is inspired by a variety of cuisines, with a Swedish touch. It has a beautiful salad buffet.

I cycle everywhere, in almost every weather. I can’t think of anything that makes me more restless than sitting in traffic. There’s so much beautiful nature you can explore on the outskirts of the city; if you don’t try it, you’re not really experiencing Gothenburg to the fullest. Härlanda Tjärn, a lake to the east of the city, has a little sauna. I do one a month, followed by a dip in the lake. Winter is the most exciting time to do it; you can’t appreciate the sauna and a cold plunge in the same way if it’s too warm outside. It really peels off stress. Also close to the city, Delsjön has two beautiful lakes with trails and cute little summerhouses with allotments.

Once spring hits, we take our clothes off. Suddenly, there’s this transformation in the city. You can feel it getting lighter and everyone’s outside having a fika (a break for coffee and sweet pastries). You’ll find semla – cardamom buns with marzipan and cream – everywhere in early spring. 

When my dad moved to Gothenburg in the ’70s, an area like Haga was known for really cheap rent. These days, it’s super-pricey. But while some things have changed, the spirit of the city is definitely the warmth of the people.

For You is out now via Ninja Tune