Where to find the best döner kebab in Berlin

Berlin has long prided itself on its progressive ideals, from its many sustainability initiatives to the flourishing of vegan food that is drastically changing the diet of this once meat-loving city. But the one thing Berliners have refused to part with is their love for the döner kebab. The dish of meat thinly sliced from a rotating vertical skewer (döner means turning) was first served (without bread) in the Ottoman Empire in the 19th century. But the street-food version, made with beef or veal packaged up in toasted flatbread, was popularised in Germany in the 1970s by Turkish migrants who moved there under West Germany’s Gastarbeiter (guest worker) scheme to replenish the country’s declining labour force. Since then the döner kebab has become synonymous with the German capital. Today there are more than 1,000 shops in the city, serving up myriad versions. 

The sandwich’s true origins remain controversial. The traditional Turkish version is served simply with meat, spices and onion. The German version loads on tomatoes, cabbage, pickles and other vegetables and is finished with a generous squeeze of garlic (knoblauch) mayo or chilli (scharf) sauce. Last year, a cultural tug of war broke out between Turkey and Germany over whether it was born on the streets of Istanbul or Berlin. Turkey applied to the European Union to grant the döner kebab name protected status, sparking a fierce backlash in Germany where many feared Ankara would dictate what could or could not name itself a döner going forward. Some food historians argue the flatbread sandwich was being served in Istanbul around the late 1950s and 1960s. Advocates for Germany credit either Mehmet Aygün in 1971 or Kadir Nurman in 1972, both Turkish guest workers in Berlin, with turning the traditional dish into a street snack served in bread. Others point out there was already a kebab shop in London as early as 1966.

What is certain is that the evolution of the döner kebab found in Berlin today is distinctly German. You can certainly still find traditional Turkish-style döners if you know where to look but, to accommodate the changing diet of Germans, a second wave of kebab has begun to emerge, one greatly modified from its Turkish roots. Here are my recommendations.

No part of the city has more kebab shops than in the districts of Kreuzberg and Neukölln, known for being a Turkish enclave and a counterculture hub for creatives. Surrounded on three sides by the Berlin Wall, this was the frontier of the free world during the cold war. The geographic isolation of the neighbourhood meant relative poverty and low investments, attracting waves of Turkish workers who were looking for cheap housing. Even today, a walk down Karl-Marx-Straße transports you away from the orderliness characteristic of German cities to the frenetic, aromatic streets of Istanbul.

A walk down Karl-Marx-Straße transports you to the frenetic, aromatic streets of Istanbul

Deep in these neighbourhoods lies Imren Grill, an old-school, no-frills Turkish kebab shop that started in this area but has since expanded to different parts of the city. For a taste of a kebab at its most authentic and pared-back, Imren offers a specific beef-döner marinated in yogurt, onions and a mixture of spices including cinnamon and cumin. The result is a level of fragrance and richness rarely rivalled, with beef so tender it almost melts in your mouth. Equally traditional is Pamfilya, a cozy, family-run Turkish restaurant by Leopoldplatz in the Wedding district. The star here is the veal döner kebab, famous in the Berlin food scene for the high quality of meat used. Pamfilya’s veal is tender but thin, giving it a unique freshness.

For a taste of the döner’s German evolution, head to Mustafa Demir’s Gemüse Kebab in Mehringdamm, near the now-defunct Templehof airport. Gemüse, German for vegetables, is known for its chicken kebab, mixed in a handful of grilled vegetables (potatoes, peppers and onions) and cucumbers. Founded after the owner Mustafa Demir devised a way to serve a different type of kebab due to a spike in mad cow disease in Europe in 1996, it has reached legendary status for revolutionising the way döner is prepared, becoming one of the top tourist attractions in the city.

You’ll find similar flavours and a shorter queue at Rüyam in the south-western district of Schöneberg. The chicken and vegetable kebab here draws legions of fans. The secret to their success lies in their rich and zesty herb, garlic and spicy sauces, recipes they have kept secret. 

For a glimpse into the future, pay a visit to Kebap with Attitude in the Mitte district. Here Turkish-German owner Deniz Buchholz is shedding the reputation of the döner kebab as a grab-and-go street food, playing with seasonal ingredients to create changing unorthodox pairings to the döner meat. Diners can expect such creative inventions as their spring special grilled beef döner with fresh white Beelitz asparagus doused in hollandaise and strawberry-ginger jam. 

On my recent visit, I was treated to a tray full of truffle delük kebab, served without the usual flatbread. The combination of the white truffle, beef, pomegranate and roasted potatoes creates a symphony of flavours in the mouth, and a chance to experience the potential of the döner as a springboard for culinary innovations. For Buchholz, kebab’s magic also lies in its ability to bring a neighbourhood together. It’s not just a snack, it’s a way to bond.